Aug 23
I go out early and fish the dawn bite. I try all places where I caught fish before. I do not get a single bite on the rap. One good hit on hula popper. Must get out of here. I break camp. I will miss it here. A very peaceful spot. My poison ivy scars are healing, and I have no more pus blisters. I drive down to Brokaw, and I find the mystery boat launch. How could I have missed it. Just drive down the industrial road past the semitrailer truck storage, over the RR tracks, past the tank cars down the gravel road till you turn left just before the No Trespassing sign.
YES! I can and will get out on the river here. I drive back up to Merrill and rent a motel room at Super 8. I will download pics, work on my blog, swim in the pool and shower. And prep for the fishing trip I have been thinking about for a couple years.
I thought not.
I have a map I made by placing a sheet of paper over my computer monitor, after I had zoomed in to the area of my trip in Google Earth.
The river is swarming with huge numbers of crayfish. Apparently these are rusty crayfish, and introduced and highly invasive species. Native only to Indiana, Ohio, and Kentucky, but now spreading rapidly across the US, probably distributed by fishermen who use them as bait. In S Oregon the native signal crayfish are being wiped out by a similar invasive from the midwest, the ringed crayfish.
There are berry bushes here that remind me of the blue huckleberries in BC.
It is late afternoon. I have 3 rods loaded. On the big 7 foot rod I have a #5 Mepps spinner. On the medium rod I have a 4.5” rapala. And on the tiny rod (should have brought the other, bigger rod. What am I doing with an ultralight rod on a musky river?) I tie on a big zara spook. The spook is what I call a “last call” lure. Looks really stupid in broad daylight. Nothing would bite on this floating wooden torpedo. But at 1:55 AM at the bar, when the last call for drinks is coming round, the guys that already scored hot chicks are long gone. The guys who did not get lucky are still prowling around. Forget about the gobs of lipstick and mascara, the wrinkles around the eyes. Anything looks good at 1:55. The spook is usually a poor lure in the middle of the day, but can be a great lure for drawing strikes from big, hungry fish just before it gets too dark to see.
Not likely to get bit now, but I throw it out into the shallow current anyway and bob it back in. Just out from my boat a big fish boils on the spook, and misses. Looks like a big smallie. Yikes! There are fish in this river. Big ones. A ways further down I tie off to shore. I am twitching the spook down to a slick above a riffle. Only 2 feet deep here at the most. Suddenly the entire shoreline lifts, as if tectonic plates had shifted and generated a mini tsunami. I have spooked a fish out with the spook. There is no bass in the world that ever made a wake like that. It can only be one thing – a member of genus Esox, for which this river is noted. It has been 39 years since I caught a musky (Rideau River, in Carleton Ontario). Cannot believe a fish of this size was holding in water this shallow.
I throw the rap out into the main channel and get bit. It is genus Sander, making its first appearance on this trip. Sander vitreus. I tried for walleyes in the Columbia in BC in June. This is my first Wisconsin eye in decades. This little guy would be a tasty snack for the big fish that just spooked out of here.
I am drifting down a fairly deep (for this river) slot, side casting with the Mepps on the big rod, when I snag off on the bottom. Only this time it is not a snag. It is a fish. Big one. The big rod brings the smallie to justice quickly, but by the time I land it I am far downstream. Cannot get back up there to try another cast without great effort. I am less than ½ mile down from the launch, and aleady I have caught my biggest fish of the trip. A toad SM, probably 19 – 20” (forgot to measure it), and 4.5 lbs. I am beginning to like this river already!
I ease my way down, fishing little, relaxing, enjoying, getting to know the river's personality. Never been on a river like this in a boat like this. Few people – even locals who know the river well – dare to run this river in prop boats. I have never been down it. No idea what is around the next bend. The sun is getting low. Need to find an island where I can set up camp and not be trespassing. I come to the first big bend. There is a deeper slot against the bank, and a jet boat with 3 people in it, holding above the deepest spot. They leave as soon as I come around the bend. Have I discovered there secret hotspot? As I float over I see it is 7.5 ft deep on the sounder. Tailing into a long deep pool that splits into an island.
Ridiculous to be throwing a lure like this on a tiny noodle of a rod, even if it is loaded with 10 lb test line. I can bomb the spook way out into the river. It bobs side-to-side as I jerk in back in. In bass terminology, this is called “walking the dog”. I fan out 3 casts to cover the area near my boat. No bites. Gonna quit for the nite, but decide to throw one more long cast up to the top end of the island. It is too dark to see the lure, but I can hear it slurshing as I walk the dog into the little back eddy. Suddenly there is a tremendous boil, my little rod bends over, and the spook is gone. Huge fish. Never even spun the drag. Line is sliced off clean, as if cut with a razor. This is the work of Esox masquinongy. Talk about apex predator...
Bass have no teeth, just serrated edges around their lips. You can hold them by sticking your thumb in their mouth. Cannot do this with an Esox. Musky are all business. Mouth is armed with hundreds of conical razor sharp teeth. Make short work of monofilament line. Most people who fish seriously for skis use steel leaders. Now I see why.
I go back to the campfire and pour another shot. I don't enjoy hurting the fish I catch, but it does not bother me a lot. These fish live a rough and rowdy life, and they are tough. The bigger fish constantly rip off pieces of the snaller ones, if they cannot swallow their prey entirely.
When I was younger I used to never be able to wear good pants when I was fishing, cuz I would get them full of fish blood. But I have evolved as a fisherman. Seldom spill much if any fish blood nowadays. Usually spill more of my own blood, and that does not bother me either. Part of the gane. But I hate breaking fish off, and leaving them with a lure stuck in their mouth. Maybe will cause them to die if they cannot shake the lure loose. I cannot remember having broken a fish off yet this year. I am depressed at the thought of leaving my big spook stuck in the mouth of a big fish. As I sip my whiskey by the fire I hear the big fish rolling and jumping again and again in the channel next to my camp. Not a happy nite for this guy.
A full moon is rising over my little island home. They call this God's Country. I see why. An hour later I tie on a big Cavitron buzzbait, another last call lure, and throw it around the side channel. (A buzzbait has a metal propeller that churns up the surface if you retrieve it fast.) Standing in my boat, which is tied off to shore. Just 15 ft out, another giant fish boils up on the buzzer. In one foot of water! Misses. This river is scary.
I spend a long time around the fire, sipping whiskey, feeling guilty about the fish I broke off. I have not gone far. I can still hear them clanging off the hours in the bell tower in Merrill. After midnite I head into my tent to sleep. Tomorrow morning I will have the big pool to myself.
Aug 24
I awake at the first grey of hope. Stoked. Ready to challenge the mighty Esox. But I keep forgetting. The Wisconsin is a working river. At nite it punches the time clock and goes to bed. They have shut the dam in Merrill, and the river has dropped over a foot. My boat is high and dry, again.
I wander around and explore the island. Throw the buzzbait around a few times. No takers. Wait for them to turn the river back on. Finally cannot stand it any more. I must Onward! I put on my gum boots and kick away the loose rocks to make a channel. With huge effort I can push the Bullship forward about 2 inches. Then get my knees braced behind the transom and do it again, and again, and again. After about ½ hr I have the Bullship afloat and ready to head off downriver. This deserves another shot of whiskey.
Before I leave I throw the buzzer around one more time. Sun is well up now.
I hear stuff dropping into the water across the channel. Must be a crazy squirrel chewing off pine cones for winter, but forgetting to don it over land. Turns out it is an eagle, doing some housecleaning around the nest.
I head off. Such a peaceful and easy drift on a calm day.
There are zillions of them, but they are not evenly distributed. In many areas that look fine to me there are only a few. But in many areas they swarm. It would make for an interesting GIS project to map crayfish distribution, and then analyze it vs different variables like time of day, depth, substrate, substrate BOD, DO, etc. Good place for a commercial fishery. You could fill semi trailer trucks with them here.
I need something to sit on, so I take my cooler onto shore as a bench, and I forget to put it back in the boat when I leave. By the time I realize it is gone I am far downstream. Bad mistake. There is no turning back on this river.
First cast after lunch, just around the point of the island I was sitting on, gets bit. It is another ski. Small one, about 2 ft long, Chomped the Mepps. Hit in knee deep water. It will be gone in an instant if the line gets across its teeth. I try to snap a couple pics while it is beside the boat.
I get a couple nice SMs on the rap.
The river is so shallow. Looks deep cuz of the stained water. But I must keep the sounder going constantly, and pull the props up when it gets to be less than 1 ft deep. There are long stretches of perhaps ¼ mile where I cannot lower the motors into the water. Again I am flushing huge fish off the banks in water less than 1 ft deep. Cannot believe there are such big fish in such shallow water. Then I get another bite. It puts up a solid and stubborn battle, but does not jump or make any long runs. I have caught a mussel on the Mepps. I release it, cuz this river is listed as fly fishing only for mussels. June – Oct.
Then I get a small hit on the rap. This little guy wanted fish for dinner, and just won't let go.
Just above the Hwy 51 bridge the river breaks into a maze of islets and sidechannels. I get out and walk around one of the islets. There is a very fishy looking spot here. Likely home for skis, so I take a pic.
Moments later I hook another small ski here, on the Mepps. Smaller than the last one. I take its pic and release it.
Just above the bridge I get a couple SMs in a back eddy. One, about 2 lb, is really fat. Belly is bulging, and it is puking out crayfish. Guess this one was not educated enough to know that SMs do not feed on invasive rusty crayfish..
Downtream of Hwy 51 the river changes. Previous to here it was very fast and shallow, broken into islands and back channels. The deepest spot I found was 7.5 ft, at the pool above where I camped last nite. Below the hwy it widens out into some deeper slower pools. But still full of fast shallows and islands.
At one bend there is a backwater formed by a creekmouth. (Actually the mouth of the Pine River, I learn later.) It is slow and deep (5ft), ideal habitat for Esox. There is a rail bridge just up the slough, which looks like ideal bass/musky structure. I creep up the shore with electric motor, probing with the rapala. No bites. Cannot believe it. Have not had a bite in a couple hours when I toss the rap up towards a bunch of downed wood just above the trestle.
A huge surge. Like the propwash of the Jacob Epstein pushing barges on the Mississippi. It is an awesome sight to see the power of these giant predators when they pull the trigger in shallow water and switch into kill mode. Heading straight towards my tiny helpless little rap. It is over before it begins. Never spins the drag, barely bends my rod tip. The line is cut off clean as if with a pair of scissors. I sit in the Bullship, stunned. 3 big skis busting on topwater hits in shallow water in less than one day. All gone in less than a second. I am not in any way prepared for this fishery. I am a bass fisherman, not rigged up for barracudas. Should not even be throwing a lure onto this water with my puny gear. Should go back to Oregon and fish in Emigrant Lake, where you might not catch much, but at least you get your lure back. I am an insult to these fish, and this river. Must find a place to camp. The sun is going down. I will come back to this spot this evening. On the way out of the slough I am trailing my hand in the water to wash it off. Then quickly pull it back into the boat. People have their fingers bitten off around here by doing this. Muskies are very aggressive.
I try to land on the top of an island, but just miss and get swept by into the side channel. Must get back up into the big pool. Takes me a ½ hr to snake thru very shallow side channels out to the main channel, and then carefully back up thru a long wide run of 18” deep water just to get back to the place I missed. Too hard to land here, so I camp on a small island along the E shore. Not as pretty a spot as last nite, but easy access to the mouth of Pine River.
I brace myself with another shot, and then I head back up to the creekmouth where I broke off the big ski. Big fish are swirling in the current break off the mouth, but I choose to go up into the slough. My heart is not in it. My mojo is gone. I am using a 5 ½” rap on the middle rod, and an 8” rap on the big rod. A small ski jumps the rap near the mouth of the slough and misses. I fish way up to the top of the creekmouth, and switch to a buzzbait on the way back down. Never get another bite. Go figure.
I return to my camp. Make a campfire for companionship, even tho I only have 2 choices for dinner: Water or water. I choose water, watch the stars, think about breaking off big fish. After not even hooking a musky in 39 years I have had half a dozen hits in a little over a day on this river. Caught 2, broke off three, plus a trophy class SM along with a number of other SMs. On a difficult river I have never seen before. And I have hardly even been fishing. Mostly just drifting along, taking pics, sipping whiskey. I know I could do much better if I made this trip again. Especially if I was equipped with stronger leader.
Aug 25
The dawn is cold, and very foggy.
I have been on the river 2 days, and I can still faintly here the bell tower chiming in Merrill. I have only gone 1/3 of the way to my takeout. Need to get a move on. Tired of this river where the fish take your lures and don't give them back. 2 nites on the same river. Starting to grow roots. Must ONWARD, like the great explorers before me. Marco Polo, Lewis and Clancy. But it is pitch fog. I fear for my safety heading off on a one way trip into unknown water. Sit in the chair for ½ hr, waiting for the fog to lift. It does not. They have turned off the river again overnite so the boat is grounded, but it is easy to slide it back into the water. Time to go. And I am off into the fog.
At first I can barely see my buzzbait land cuz it is to foggy, but soon the fog begins to lift.
The river really changes here. Big deep slack pools. Up until now I have not marked a spot deeper than 7.5 feet, but I drift over 3 pools that are 11 feet this morning. Superb big fish habitat. Much better than anything I have seen yet. But I do not get a bite. Do not try much, or hard. Just a few quick casts as I go by. Must choose between fishing hard or getting to the end, where I can load the boat out and find coffee. I choose coffee.
I motor right thru the big pools, and drift quickly down the runs.
There is one big rapids. The Bullship rides it out with ease, but a mistake here could be disaster.
(At the the boat launch when I am loading out I meet a local musky fisherman who tells me that he was fishing this spot a couple weeks ago. Hooked a 2 lb bass that jumped once and then went deep. And stayed deep. He could not get it back up for a long time, and when he finally did get it up to the boat it was sideways in the jaws of a giant musky. When the musky got next to the boat it let the bass go. The bass was crippled and bleeding, still on his line. As the bass drifted away in the current the musky came up and grabbed it again. He reeled them both back to the boat and the musky let go again. Then came up and gulped the bass again and took off with it. He reeled them both back to the boat and the musky let the bass go again. Then came up and grabbed it. This went on for 6 repetitions, before the musky gave up on the game.)
Above Hwy 51 there were houses along the bank. On the water you are seldom out of sight of houses. But down here it is much wilder. Many great camping islands. Should have camped down here yesterday. Many eagles soaring here, looking for fish. How do they see them in this dark water?
And then the boat launch is in sight.
At the loadout I meet a local who is launching his jet boat. He shows me the lures he is using. Made them himself. He says these are his small lures.
One is stupid and ugly, and obviously all chewed up by musky teeth. He said this was a mistake, but it turns out it catches a lot of fish. He throws it out halfway across the river. My rods would break in half if I tried to throw that lure. He jerks it back in, and it jumps and dives like a crazed thing. A zara spook on steroids. This is how they fish for skis around here. Not with rapalas on 10 lb test line. More important, he shows me the leaders he uses. 50 lb test flourocarbon, about 12” long. Cannot use mono, cuz the slightest nick from a musky tooth and it breaks. I can attest to that. I do not have 50 lb, but I do have a spool of 20 lb test flourocarbon with me. That is OK, he says. As long as it is not mono. I will re-rig, with flouro leaders, before I go out for skis again. Farewell to a beautiful stretch of river. One that few people get to see. One that is not yet dammed, and not yet swarmed by zebra mussels and asian carp. Love to get back here again some day.
I head down to Wausau. Write up some blog in a coffee shop, and then head off. Next target: the West Fork of the Chippewa River, above Chippewa Flowage. Used to own 5 acres of property near there, which I sold in 2001. Gave the proceeds to my mom's retirement funding. Saw a great TV show once about fly fishing for muskies on the W Fork. Tried to make this trip in 2001, when I was last here to sell the property. Did not happen then. Must make it happen this time.
I head W out of Wausau on Hwy 29, then N on Hwy 107. Must have taken a wrong turn, cuz suddenly I am in Chicago. Have not been there for a long time, but it was a much bigger town as I remember it. Now it is just little. Everybody must have left town, just like me.
I arrive in Medford (Wisconsin, not Oregon) which has a pretty little cemetery. Lots of cemeteries in this part of the US, cuz it was settled so long ago in comparison to the west. People have been getting buried here for centuries.
I find a nice county park, but I get evicted by the cops. No camping allowed here. The cop is very nice, and directs me to a nearby wayside where I sleep in the car.
Aug 26
I wake up and blog from 7 AM till noon. Stop by the little lake at the park where I was evicted last nite. Looks like a good little bass lake. Should have fished here at dawn. But then I would have been hopelessly behind on my blog, again. On the way back out to the hwy I pass by a couple of sandhill cranes on a farmhouse lawn. I hear these cranes often, but I have never been so close. Turns out these cranes are hired, $22.50 per hour, organic pest control, clean out the grasshoppers and other bugs. A real bargain.
I cross the Jump River, another fine bass/musky stream. But this is a canoe stream, too small for the Bullship. Some other day.....
On to Ladysmith where I stop by the Tinker Tot drive in. I waited for an hour and never got served.
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I go down to Spring Lake. Think about fishing, but a couple guys who are jsut coming in say all you ever catch here are little bass. Just like when I fished here in 1982. I don't bother launching. Instead I park along the hwy at the N end of the lake. A strong S wind is blowing. I can leave my car windows open for the first time since leaving the Black Hills, cuz the wind blows the bugs away. Wonderful refreshing sleep in the cool steady wind.
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